WATER LINES FROM THE RADIATOR TO THE ENGINE

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Diagram

The water lines will run from the radiator to the engine through the center of the car, inside of the console tunnel.

The measurements predetermined in the first section will help you determine the proper location these lines will be mounted in.

The water lines should be located as far to the right in the console tunnel as possible without actually touching the tunnel.

Remember, you have to install your shifter, brake lines and emergency brake in the tunnel as well, so leave clearance for these parts to operate properly.

We recommend using exhaust tubing for these water lines (1 ½ " diameter).

This exhaust tubing can be purchased from any muffler shop. Usually, they can bend it to your specifications and do it very inexpensively. Or, you can also purchase pre-bent pieces and splice them together using rubber hose and adjustable hose clamps.

    Routing the Water Lines:

    One line will be routed from the bottom outlet on the radiator, through the console tunnel to the pickup at the water pump on the motor.

    The other line will run from the upper inlet on the radiator, through the console tunnel (on top of the other line) and out the back and will eventually end up at the outlet on the intake manifold.

    Fitting and Installation of Water Lines:

    Both upper and lower tubes should extend approximately 10 or 12 inches in front of the floor tub firewall.

    The upper tube should bend just in front of the floor tub firewall toward the upper radiator inlet.

    The lower tube can remain straight. The lower tube will run through the console tunnel about 6 inches past the rear body firewall cross-member and then bend toward the water pump pickup.

    A tube with a 90 degree bend (approximately 6" radius), with 18 inches of straight tube on each end, will be fitted next.

    Trim one end of the 90 degree piece to extend from the upper tube just past the fuel cell shroud. (approx. 1"). This tube will lay over toward the water outlet on the intake manifold.

    Looking from the front of the car, this tube will lay over at about a 2 o’clock position.

    A tube with a 115 degree bend and 6" radius with about 12 inches of straight tube at one end and 4 inches at the other end will be fitted next.

    Trim the long end so this piece will extend from the last piece you installed to the water neck on the intake manifold. After this piece is properly trimmed, install using rubber hose and adjustable clamps. Now measure for the proper lengths of flex radiator hoses and install where necessary using adjustable hose clamps.

    1. From the water pump to the lower tube at the rear.
    2. From the upper tube to the upper radiator inlet.
    3. From the lower tube to the lower radiator outlet.
    Mounting Tubes to Chassis:

    Angle brackets and exhaust tube u-bolts are used to mount the steel tubes to the chassis.

    Make 2 angle brackets. On one leg of the bracket, drill 2 holes (for bolting to the chassis).

    On the other leg, drill 4 holes for the exhaust tube u-bolts (stagger these holes) so you can keep the tubes close together.

    One bracket will mount to the front floor tub cross-member. The other bracket will mount to the rear body firewall cross-member.

    Using u-bolts, bolt the tubes into place.

    The water tubes will need to be insulated in the area where they pass through the interior cab section.

    Use insulation usually used in refrigeration applications. This insulation can usually be found at hardware stores, commercial refrigeration outlets or plumbing and heating outlets.

    Insulation needs to be approximately 1" thick.

    Installing the Water Filler Surge Tank:

    Location

    Mount the surge tank in the center of the roll bar cross-member just above the fuel cell.

    The filler cap should be about 8" above the cross-member.

    Mounting brackets are made from ¾" x 3/32" mild steel flat stock.

    Just bend the flat stock around the tank and bend out two flat tabs on each end. The tabs should lay against each other when mounted tight to the chassis.

    Drill holes on each flat tab, so when you bolt them on the roll bar cross-member, they act as a clamp as well. (2 mounts required)

    After the surge tank is mounted, route a 5/8" heater hose line from the bottom of the surge tank to the heater hose inlet on the water pump.

    (If a Heater Hose is Used)

    Route the second line from the bottom of the surge tank to the outlet side of the heater core. On the heater core, the top is the inlet and the bottom is the outlet.

    Run a second line from the heater core inlet, back to the intake manifold. Use a heater hose adapter and screw it into the manifold at the thermostat housing area.

    Both heater lines will run down the driver’s side of the chassis and mount on the outside of the upright frame tubes.

    Attach the hoses to the chassis with rubber coated Adell clamps.


    PARTS NEEDED


    A) 1 ½" exhaust tubing, with a 6" radius 90 degree bend, 18 inches of straight tube on each end.

    B) 1 ½" exhaust tubing, with a 6" radius 115 degree bend, 18 inches of straight tube on one end and 6 inches of straight tube on the other end.

    C) ( 2) 1 ½" exhaust tubing to run from the front of the car to the rear, through the console tunnel. Measure to determine lengths necessary.

    D) (3) 1 ½" radiator flex hoses. Lengths to be determined after steel tubes are installed.

    E)
    (12) 1 ½" adjustable hose clamps.

    F) (4) exhaust tube u-bolts and nuts.

    G) 18 inches 2" x 1/8" flat bar stock (mild steel) for angle brackets.

    H) (1) Chevy expansion tank (Corvette) - Part #3016340.

    I) 1 ½" straight rubber hose for splicing steel tubes.

    J) 5/8" rubber heater hose. Measure to determine lengths.

    K) (10) 5/8" adjustable hose clamps.

    L) (1 ea.) 5/8" heater hose pipe thread adapter (for intake manifold).

    M) (10 ea.) rubber coated Adell clamps.

    N) 1 box #10 Pan Head machine screws (self-tapping).