Prep
Body
Frt suspension
Cooling
Steering column
Horn
Fuel Cell
Heater A/C
Water lines
BrakesEngine
Rear Suspension
Exhaust
Shifter
Seat belts
Body
Pedals
Electrical
Battery
Body seals
Interior
Final
Parts
Diagrams
The two master cylinders used for the brakes are marked 5/8" on the side of the cylinder. This marking refers to the bore size of the cylinder. The clutch cylinder is marked ¾".
- Mounting the Master Cylinders:
Mount the master cylinders in their prospective locations, for example the clutch master to the extreme left and the brake master in the two remaining locations. They all mount in the holes provided in the chassis cross-member toward the front of the car.
Use 1 ¼" long 5/16 bolts with locking nuts. Also use a washer where the bolt comes in contact with the cylinder mounting flange.
Installing the Clutch and Brake Lines:
Tools necessary to install the brake lines are a tubing bender for 1/8" brake lines and a double flare, flaring tool.
A. Routing the Clutch Line:
The clutch line starts at the extreme left side master cylinder marked ¾. The line should be bent toward the center of the car. At the center of the master cylinder cross-member, the line should bend 90 degrees and run toward the rear of the car through the console tunnel.
Remember, make sure there is enough clearance for the bottom of the shifter to work from side to side without interfering with the clutch line. Extend the clutch line back to the fuel cell flange mount cross-member and bend 90 degrees to the left side of the chassis. Run the line across the cross-member to the upright frame tube and bend up 90 degrees and terminate line about 6 inches up. Install fitting to accept flex hose from the end of the hard line to the slave cylinder.
B. Routing the Front Brake Lines:
The front brake line will start at the center master cylinder and run up to the front upper control arm cross-member. Bend the line so the line will terminate in the center of that cross-member facing forward. At this point, install a cross fitting (4 outlets) to the end of this line. The outlet straight across from the brake line to the master cylinder will have a pressure sensitive brake light switch installed. The two remaining outlets will have the brake line extending to the outside edge of the frame (one right side and one left side) and will terminate using fittings that will accept flex hose to extend from the hard line to the wheel cylinders.
You can use the stock Pinto frame anchor bracket for the end of the brake lines or you can fabricate brake line end frame anchor brackets using angle iron. (1 x 1 ½ x 1/8)
C. Routing the Rear Brake Lines:
The rear brake line will run from the extreme right side master cylinder of the master cylinder and bend over toward the center of the car. At the center of the master cylinder cross-member, the line should bend 90 degrees and run toward the rear of the car.
If an emergency brake is going to be used, it should be plumbed in-line with the rear brakes. Types of emergency brake handles and systems that can be used are:
1. A non-reservoir master cylinder with a Pinto brake handle and bracket (available from Manta Cars).All of these systems work fine. The two latter systems require that you apply the brakes with your foot pedal and lock the emergency brake.
2. A micro-lock system used on trucks and forklifts.
3. A high pressure rater (2000 lbs. per sq. inch) or higher barrel valve with handle.
The brake line will continue on through the center of the car all the way to the most rear cross-member (in the center). Then use a "T" fitting and plumb the brake lines to the extreme outside edges of the chassis. Right and left sides to terminate on the bottom side of the top frame fails. Use the stock Chevy Citation brake line end frame anchors and clips to mount hard lines to the chassis. Also, use a Citation double flare fitting on the end of the hard lines to accept the Citation flex hose. These fittings are metric thread. Connect the flex hose to the hard line and to the wheel cylinder. Use rubber coated Adell clamps to fasten brake line to the chassis where needed. This should complete your brake and clutch line installation.
As soon as you complete your brake and clutch line installation, you may want to bleed the lines and check for leaks at the fittings. If you have leaks at the fittings, you should back off on the tightness of the fittings and retighten. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times and this should seat the flare and not leak.
Pressure bleeding is the best way to bleed the brakes, however, if you don’t have access to a pressure bleeder, you can manually bleed the line. One person to operate the pedal and one person to bleed the lines.
Do the line pressure test before installing the body. It is easier to see and get to all of the fittings this way.